![]() ![]() Runner says he’s also broken beta on a route (12a) at his home crag in Kentucky’s Red River Gorge that he says is “known for spewing off short climbers.”īut Runner has been breaking the beta of life, so to speak, since coming out as a transgender man when he was a teenager. The area was made famous by Sharma, and both ascents span 60 feet up orange limestone over the water. Both of the routes Runner climbed-called Ejector Seat and All Cats are Black in the Night-soar over the Mediterranean Sea on Mallorca’s Diablo Wall. It’s this kind of problem-solving that Runner had to tap into on the reality show’s final two climbs-a 7c/5.12d and 8a/5.13b-to beat runner-up Dominic “Dom” Terrill Berry, who is much taller. ![]() Runner, who stands just five feet tall, was referring to being what he calls “an extremely short climber who often can’t do the classic beta of a route.” Instead of relying on a long reach, Runner must find ways to move up a route that work for him and his relatively short limbs. In climbing parlance, the phrase refers to finding a new method for climbing a route-oftentimes one that is easier or more straightforward. “I love breaking beta-it’s the most fun,” Runner told me. The morning after the event, Runner, who is 24, met me for breakfast in Boulder. Producers cast amateur climbers rather than professional or top-level ones in an effort to make the show relatable to experts and casual fans of the sport. The show, which was produced by climbing veteran Chris Sharma and Hollywood star Jason Mamoa (yes, Aquaman), cast competitors who attempted routes rated between 5.11+ to 5.13 or V6 (considered advanced but not pro-level). The eight-episode series featured ten climbers vying for a $100,000 grand prize plus a one-year sponsorship from PrAna, also worth $100,000. Twenty-four-year-old Cat Runner of Louisville, Kentucky, waved warmly to a full house-and a standing ovation-at Colorado’s Boulder Theater on the night of Thursday, January 26 following the airing of the finale of HBO’s rock climbing reality show The Climb. ![]()
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